Pumpkin Clafouti

A clafouti is a sweet baked "pancake," made popular in France, that is usually filled with cherries or other seasonal fruits. In most versions, while the clafouti bakes, the batter puffs up around the fruit and browns, becoming slightly crusty on the top of the soft, custardy center. In this recipe, however, I use puréed pumpkin mixed into the batter instead of adding chunks of fruit at the end. It makes for a particularly creamy, silken clafouti to which I add some chopped hazelnuts for crunch. This dessert could take the place of a pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving; since it's much lighter, your guests will be grateful to see it after the huge turkey dinner. The batter can be made ahead and baked while you eat, or during the football interlude before dessert.

I call for a cheese pumpkin in this recipe. It's a thick, fleshy, rather squat pumpkin with very dense flesh. If you can't find one, don't substitute regular pumpkin, which is much too watery. Instead, use butternut or Hubbard squash. In a pinch, you can also substitute canned unsweetened pumpkin purée instead of making your own.