Roast Quail with Grapes and Chestnuts

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F.

   Step 2

   Remove and discard any feathers from quail, then remove necks if necessary with poultry shears and discard. Rinse quail inside and out and pat dry, then sprinkle all over with salt and pepper.

   Step 3

   Heat oil and butter in a deep 12-inch heavy ovenproof skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides, then brown quail on all sides, 12 to 15 minutes total. Transfer to a large plate.

   Step 4

   Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet, then sauté carrot, onion, and thyme over moderately high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, 2 minutes.

   Step 5

   Return quail (with any juices on plate) to skillet with vegetables and roast, breast sides up, in oven until just cooked through (cut into an inner thigh; meat will still be slightly pink), about 10 minutes. Transfer quail to a platter and loosely cover with foil.

   Step 6

   Add Cognac to vegetables in skillet and boil 1 minute, then add broth and boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 6 minutes. Stir in crème fraîche and simmer until slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes.

   Step 7

   Pour sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing hard on and discarding solids, then pour back into skillet. Add grapes and chestnuts and simmer, stirring occasionally, until heated through and grapes turn a shade lighter, about 3 minutes. Transfer grapes and chestnuts to platter with quail, then boil sauce until thick enough to lightly coat back of spoon, about 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, then spoon some sauce over quail and serve remainder on the side.

2. Step 8

   *Available at specialty foods shops, D'Artagnan (800-327-8246), and Cavendish Game Birds (802-885-1183).

   Step 9

   **Available at specialty foods shops and some supermarkets.