For some time I had been thinking: How can I pare down a classic meat sauce for those occasions when I have neither the time to make nor the voracity to consume a full-scale ragù? The sauce below is the answer I came up with. I replaced beef with veal; eliminated the milk, the wine, the carrot, and the celery; and reduced the cooking time from several hours to half of one. It is as easy to take as it is to do. Is it a favorite dish? Sure — it is my favorite simple meat sauce.
Suggested pasta: The ideal carrier for this simple meat sauce is a homemade noodle, in particular one scented with rosemary and sage, cut into fettuccine or tonnarelli. Boxed dry pasta in a short tubular shape such as penne or maccheroncini can be a satisfactory alternative.
The sauce may be cooked a day in advance and refrigerated in a tightly sealed container or in a bowl under plastic wrap. When reheating, add a tablespoon of water, bring to a gentle simmer, stir occasionally, and cook until hot through and through.
