From the rich broth to the velvety cubes of winter melon — a gourd commonly used in Chinese cuisine for the wonderfully soft texture it takes on during cooking — this wholesome soup is immensely satisfying. Although the winter melon's delicate white flesh has no distinct taste of its own, it absorbs the broth's flavor. We recommend buying a good-quality organic free-range chicken to get the best results. Since Chinese ham is unavailable in the United States, we substitute Smithfield ham. But other cured hams, such as prosciutto, also work well.
· Broth can be made 5 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Remove any solidified fat before using. · Soup, without final addition of ham, ginger, and scallions, can be made 3 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered.
